中央アルプス越百山敗退-SHORT SKIMO


仙涯嶺と南駒ヶ岳のあいだのコルから、SHORT SKIMOで滑降しつつザック回収をくわだてている。
ザックの持ち主は、2.10に仙涯嶺付近から滑落して遭難死した西田由香里である。

経緯としては、事故直後にブロック雪崩などのリスクを負いつつも沢を遡行しつつ回収を試みようとしたHさんが、
ザック回収へ乗り出してくれたことだ。
Hさんは、名うてのアルパインクライマーで、滑落しても岩に抱き着いて肋骨を折りながらでも生きていく人。
じつは、無難という言葉を排除した生き方に、尊敬している。
Hさんは、私がかつてやっていた、Mt-channel(やまちゃん)というWEB-TVで、本格アルパインクライマーとして、
超美人で強いKさんとコンビを組んで動画コンテンツ提供してくれていたお人だ。

ただ、その回収作戦は様々な理由からプロジェクトが反故になった経緯がある。

Hさんとメールのやりとりをしているが、経験から雪崩に流されたザックは中身もホウボウに散って、ほとんどが
ゴミ回収の様相だそうだ。

上からいくか、下からいくか……、ドローンか、それとも、誰かが回収するか、もしくは放置なのか。
正直いうと、そこはどれでも良いとおもってる。
ただ、あの山域に無性に入りたい、それだけだ。

数週間前からマップに線を引いていた。当コルが源頭部であるケサ沢本流は、等高線から読み解くに毎年滑っている
常念岳常念沢と同等、かつ東フェイスの急斜面よりは緩い。ただ、マップからはそこに崖があるのか、もしくはルンゼ両端にある
残雪からのブロック雪崩の危険性、または落石の状況なんかは当然わからない。

だから、でも、行きたいじゃないか、と私は思うので。

今回、そこをソロで偵察に行こうとおもった。車のデポ地点は道路復旧工事により、だいぶ手前からとなった。
2.5㎞で尾根に取り付く予定が、7㎞くらいは歩く結果に(笑)

ここ一か月、ストレスからの痛風発作で山へ行けなく、かなり体力が落ちたことを、嫌というほど林道で味わう。
スキーは履かなければ無用の長物で、ショートといえでも軽量ではなく背負えばそれなりに重い。

ともすれば、数年前は、あの山であのくらいのタイムだったし、すこし遅くなってもこのぐらいでしょう、
なんて、よくある度量衡は超甘かった💦

ようやく取り付いた急登尾根を登ること早10分、下山を決めた。
まあ状況によるが行けても越百小屋とみてたけど、とんでもなく手前だった(笑)
いま時季なら、MTB&トレイルシューズ&スキーが最速だと思った。

なんて四の五の言ってるが、とどのつまり、体力云々ではなく覚悟が足りなかったのだろう!

でもね、ようやく行けた思い出ぶかい中央アルプス。その麓しか歩かなかったけど、万感の思いで道中を味わった。
こんなの初めて。

つぎは、荷物を減らして、スキーレス、アイゼンスタイル、スピード登山スタイル、1DAY,2DAYSなど、
まだわからないけど、探るコトもまた登山の醍醐味である。
すでに、つぎの登山を考えている。

いつも読んでいただきありがとうございます☆


きのうから家族の仲間入りしたネコたち。昨秋、死んだ二匹以来じつに四カ月ぶりである。

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Ainsi, pour se prémunir des maux liés au mauvais œil ou à la sorcellerie, il convient régulièrement de lire le Coran et faire des invocations notamment celles du matin et du coucher, de réciter régulièrement la sourate « La vache », de renouveler son intention, de placer la certitude dans son cœur, d’effectuer ses prières etc., et surtout de demander à Allah la meilleure des protections. Toutefois, dans certaines conditions, il est nécessaire de recourir à un soignant. C’est à ce stade qu’il convient d’être vigilant. Il ne suffit pas de se rendre auprès d’une personne qui se présente avec la qualité de cheikh ou d’imam pour accepter de lui confier cette pratique. Comme pour tout procédé et encore plus lorsque cela relève de considérations religieuses, il est important de bien choisir son soignant car ce dernier est tenu de posséder des qualités bien affirmées. La maîtrise du Coran et des traditions prophétiques en la matière est une condition sine qua none, mais insuffisante. La personne doit également avoir des notions de psychologie afin de déterminer la part de sorcellerie et celle de troubles psychologiques fréquents chez les patients. La personne doit posséder une bonne hygiène de vie, notamment spirituelle puisqu’il n’est pas inutile de rappeler que le succès de la « roqya » dépend de Dieu. Ces critères sont difficilement évaluables, surtout par une personne qui est affectée par un mal-être, quelle que soit sa source. C’est pourquoi les proches doivent accompagner la personne dans la recherche d’un soignant qualifié et reconnu comme tel par des référents religieux de la localité (imam, responsables associatifs, etc.). De manière générale, le soignant doit posséder des qualités déterminées que nous pouvons synthétiser de la manière suivante. Il doit : être en capacité de lire le Coran, croire avec certitude au Coran, être empreint de piété, connaître les pièges et les caractéristiques du diable et des djinns, connaître la méthode prophétique de la « roqya », disposer de connaissances de base en psychologie, avoir la conviction que le succès de sa thérapie dépend de Dieu. A l’exception de la première exigence, il semble difficile de vérifier les autres conditions dans le cadre d’un entretien téléphonique avec une personne que nous n’avons jamais rencontrée, même si elle se présente sous le titre de « cheikh » ou d’un imam. Par conséquent, ces conditions soulignent une première limite quant au recours à la « roqya » par téléphone. Par ailleurs, à l’instar de tout médecin, le soignant doit, avant de prodiguer des conseils ou une médication, procéder à une consultation. Ainsi, un environnement adéquat est indispensable pour la réalisation d’une « roqya ». Il est enfin inconcevable qu’un médecin puisse vous affirmer par téléphone connaître votre maladie et attester pouvoir vous guérir. Vous auriez plus que des doutes sur ce prétendu médecin. II- Un environnement propice et la réalisation d’une consultation préalable à la réalisation d’une « roqya » Il est intéressant de noter que, dans son ouvrage « Comment se protéger des djinns & satan », Wahîd ‘Abdussalâm Bâli évoque l’importance du climat pour réaliser une roqya[2]. Ainsi, il expose les points suivants : « 1. Préparer le climat adéquat en faisant par exemple sortir les images et les statues de la pièce où on va soigner le malade, pour permettre aux anges d’y entrer. 2. Débarrasser le sujet de tout ce qu’il peut porter sur lui comme talismans ou amulettes et les brûler. 3. Éteindre tout ce qui peut émettre le son de la musique et des chants. 4. Vider le lieu de tout ce qui comporte une infraction à la shari‘a à savoir, par exemple, la présence d’un homme qui porte de l’or ou une femme qui ne porte pas le voile légal – al-hijab. 5. Donner au malade et à sa famille une leçon de dogme de façon à ce que leurs cœurs ne soient pas attachés à un autre qu’Allah. 6. Leur faire savoir que la façon de soigner est différente de celle des sorciers et des charlatans et que le Coran recèle guérison et miséricorde, comme l’a informé Allah le Puissant et le Majestueux. 7. Diagnostiquer son cas : pour cela poser des questions au malade pour s’assurer de la présence de tous les symptômes (…) ». Or, dans les témoignages communiqués, l’interlocuteur qui se présente comme soignant ne pose aucune question aux personnes. Il débute ainsi la « roqya » directement par une récitation du Coran. 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Cette attitude vigilante du médecin traitant doit se retrouver lorsque nous envisageons le recours à une « roqya ». Pour illustrer ce propos, nous citerons l’exemple de l’anthropologue, spécialiste de l’islam européen, Farid El Asri, chercheur associé au Centre Jacques Berque, qui nous rapporte une situation alarmante suite à une « roqya » : « Une jeune femme en Belgique (…) est morte suite à une tentative d’exorcisme. Pendant les séances, les fkihs (imams) utilisent normalement de l’eau « coranisée ». Pour cette jeune femme, prétendument stérile, les exorcistes ont carrément plongé son visage dans l’eau et quand elle tentait d’en sortir pour respirer, les guérisseurs estimaient qu’il s’agissait du jinn qui l’habitait et ils replongeaient son visage dans l’eau. Pendant le procès, la famille de la défunte s’est présentée comme musulmane et a accusé ces pratiques d’être extérieures à l’islam quand les guérisseurs estimaient qu’ils avaient simplement fait ce qu’ils pouvaient. Le fait de recourir trop systématiquement au fkih risque également de faire passer une crise d’épilepsie, par exemple, pour une crise de possession. »[3] Nous allons aborder enfin la dernière problématique, celle relative aux honoraires du soignant. III- Les honoraires du soignant Le Prophète, bénédictions et salut sur lui, « a agréé les Compagnons qui ont été payés pour la roqya ». Il est dès lors autorisé de rémunérer un soignant en contrepartie d’une prestation. Toutefois, cette rémunération doit être raisonnable et surtout clairement définie avant le traitement. En outre, nous ne pouvons que souligner et rappeler que, si la roqya est réalisée dans un cadre sérieux, il convient de procéder à toutes les déclarations administratives. Comme pour tout contrat, vous devez exiger un document écrit et le praticien doit préciser quels sont ses engagements exacts afin d’éviter tout litige postérieur. Malheureusement, tous les témoignages transmis à l’UFCM soulignent que l’interlocuteur insiste à plusieurs reprises sur la gratuité de la prestation. Or, dans les faits, cette dernière est payante puisque le coût de la communication est surtaxé. Ainsi, l’une des victimes qui nous a contacté, s’est retrouvée avec une facture téléphonique (hors forfait) de 1800 euros. Par conséquent, nous constatons que ces « roqyas » gratuites sont fondées sur la technique dite du « call-back » qui consiste à amener une personne à rappeler un numéro surtaxé, information qui lui est bien évidemment dissimulée. Une « roqya » peut être payante à condition de respecter un cadre prédéterminé, fondé sur l’information et la transparence des honoraires. 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